Vatican City

Today is our last full day in Rome since we move tomorrow afternoon to a hotel at the airport 40 miles away.  This was our day for the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's Basilica.  We wanted to get as much as possible from our visit so we scheduled into an English language tour that was highly recommended.  The company is named "Eden Walks" and had nothing but praise from Tripadvisor.com customers.  It was rated #1.  We were not disappointed.  

Chris and I ran around Vatican City and some of the shops before the tour, eating a slice of pizza for energy - with a little gelato to be sure we had sufficient strength.  Then we met our guide and other participants, splitting into two groups of 15 people each.  According to our guide, the Vatican museums include over 44 miles of hallways of artwork, so any tour is just hitting the highlights.  The Vatican has one of the largest collections of art, both Christian and pre-Christian, in the world.  We spent over 3 hours in the museums, learning lots about Greek and Roman art as well as Christian art and some of its history.  Some of the art is part of the basilica, St. Peter's, such as the famous Pieta by Michelangelo and the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel which was a private chapel for the popes.  Other art was collected over the centuries for the Vatican museums.  There is so much here you can't possibly absorb it all at once.  We got as much as the body could take and will have to read and appreciate more over time or on another trip.  It was a wonderful day.  

Dinner tonight was around the corner.  We were so tired we couldn't imagine catching the bus into one of the popular areas, and as God would provide, Marti Jones had given me a business card for a restaurant near St. Peter's.  It turned out to be 3 blocks from our B&B and was great.  It was a small local place with good food and reasonable prices.  We loved it.  Plus, it had the best desserts we have seen on the trip.  Tiramisu and some chocolate thing were the proper way to complete the day.  

Now it is time to organize our stuff and be ready to catch buses and trains to get to the airport tomorrow.  We'll have a little while in the morning and early afternoon to do some last shopping and looking.  Then we begin the journey home.  It has been good being here on vacation.  But it IS time to come home.  Hope you think it's time as well!  

See you soon.  Ciao!

Chris and Bob

We are in Rome!

We got here yesterday afternoon following a 3-1/2 hour drive from Tuscany.  That was actually the easy part.  Our first stop was to the B&B where we are staying, to drop off our luggage before returning the rental car.  We went from one extreme to the other.  In Tuscany, at the top of a mountain with no one around, we had an apartment with enough space for 4 people and dining room space for 10.  It was probably 1200 square feet.  In Rome we moved into a room that including the bathroom, is no larger the 120 square feet.  We are on a busy street with cars double parked all over the place and three blocks from St. Peter's.  But we fit!

The hard part wasn't fitting in the room.  The hard part was getting the car across town to Termini, the rail/bus station where we had to return the rental.  Driving in Rome is challenging.  It took almost an hour due to construction detours, road markings we couldn't understand, and not really knowing where to go other than TERMINI.  Chris and I were VERY HAPPY when the rental agent said, "All done.  Ciao!"  

Then it was walking and walking and walking.  We made our way through half of Rome that afternoon and evening.  We visited Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, a number of churches, and ended with dinner at Piazza Novona where we sat outside and watched the people go by.  The piazza is one of Rome's treats with musicians, comedians, clowns and artists filling the square.  Dinner was good and we relaxed, pinching ourselves to assure that this was real.  

Today it was antiquities first and we toured the Roman Forum and Colosseum and visited the Pantheon.  It was the hottest day of this year so far, so we probably got burned but it was "awesome".  Also awesome was one of those God-things.  Standing in front of the Pantheon, we look over and there stands Emily Starnes and Ian!  Small world stuff?  No more than that it was a God-thing.  We caught up a little.  Ian is headed home to Virginia Beach tomorrow.  You can see their pic here.

We also visited quite a few unbelievable churches with art work from all the masters.  Dinner tonight was at a wonderful little place in Trastevere.  

Tomorrow is Vatican City and St. Peter's.  We will say a prayer for all of you.

Ciao.  Bob and Chris

Friday: our last day in Tuscany

Today, Friday, was a day for relaxing and organizing because it’s our last day here before we hit the big city: Rome.  We slept late (again? is what I hear you saying) and hung out on top of our mountain most of the day.  It was time for doing some reading, checking out how to get to Rome and organizing some plan for our 3 days there.  Quiet is good.  We headed back down to Greve in early evening and then back up that scary mountain on the other side to go to dinner.  We had a true Tuscan meal at a place for the “locals” where we couldn’t find another tourist… maybe because we had to drive way back into the hills and another couple miles on the dirt roads to find the place.  But it was worth it because it was truly representative of Tuscan cuisine.  We had a nice meal with way too much food to eat and headed back home.  Packed up tonight and we are ready to hit the road to Rome in the morning.  It’s the last leg of the journey.  

Ciao.  Chris and Bob

San Gimignano: a Gem

Thursday is market day for one of the gems of Tuscany: San Gimignano.  This city is on everyone’s tour package because its walled city is perhaps the best preserved of any medieval towns.  At its peak, San Gimi had 72 tall towers forming pillars along its walls, of which 14 still remain.  It has a beautiful collegiate church which is a basilica (not a Duomo because there is no bishop - thus no cathedral).  

San Gimignano is a little more than an hour away, so Chris and I got out early in the morning to make it for market, which ends at noon.  Market consists of many vendors who set up tents and booths to sell all kinds of items from clothing to knick-knacks, to food and fine jewelry.  Each morning the market moves to a different village.  When we arrived, San Gimi was packed.  We picked up a couple items for our grandkids at market, then headed for the church and museum of art.  The basilica was beautiful, filled with frescos detailing the life of Christ and then local saints.  The many towers are very interesting, especially as we heard about one of the primary reasons.  They were built so families could be protected as they dropped boiling oil on invading armies.  San Gimi is also home to a museum of torture.  While I got a picture there, I declined the tour.  

San Gimi is also home to Gelateria della Cisterna, which has won the world championships several years running for the best gelato.  I had to try it!  We also were introduced by a friend to Vin Santo - the “wine of the saints”.  Much of it is made there so we bought a bottle of this dessert wine and tried it tonight.  The saints did well.

On to Volterra which had a huge baptistry, held in its own building that is almost as large as Old Donation.  We could line up a lot of baptisms for Easter Vigil if we used that place!  

Back home for supper and you can see the sunset.  After eating, Chris and I sat in some chairs at the pool and watched the sun go down.  What a life!

Ciao.  Chris and Bob

Chianti and Cooking

Wednesday was another one of our slow moving mornings.  (After a few weeks of this it might be hard to get up for 8:00 a.m. services.  But God willing...)  We hung around and did some laundry and reading and finally about 2:00 took off for a drive.  We had nothing on the schedule except a 5:00 p.m. appointment in Panzano, a small village about 10 miles south of us.  We decided to see a tiny village that looks over Greve, known as Montefioralle.  It has been voted one of the most beautiful villages in the world, and the trip advisors say we won’t see tourists.  It’s only 2 miles from our town, so seems simple… until we start up the hill.  It is only 2 miles, but 1 of those 2 is straight up!  We go at about a 45 to 55 degree climb for almost a mile -- all in first or second gear.  The road is only wide enough for one car for half the way so I’m nervously praying no one comes the other direction and praying that the car doesn’t stall out.  By the time we get to the top I know why we won’t find tourists!

I’m still not sure it was worth it (because I had to drive!), but the town IS beautiful.  It is the old Greve village from the medieval period when you had to live on top of a mountain to protect your home from invasion.  Because development stopped about the 14th century it still looks like an ancient village with only about 100 people living up there.  There really isn’t anything to do there so sane tourists stay out.  We walked the town a bit and got back on the back roads (the other direction to avoid the mountain).  

We drove Chianti back roads for the next couple of hours.  They were mostly dirt roads going from one small village or winery to another.  Surprisingly there were a lot of people we passed.  There were postcard quality views around every corner.  

At 5:00 we made it to Giulietta Giovannoni’s home, “Fagiolari” in Panzano in Chianti.  Chris and I had booked a Tuscany cooking class for the evening with Giulietta, who is a well-known local chef and teacher.  She has taught at Penn State U before and runs a B&B, publishes cookbooks, and teaches various cooking classes.  We had another couple in our class who became delightful companions for the class and meal.  They were from Melbourne, Australia.  After wine and introductions, we got down to business! 

I won’t describe all the details or this will be long and boring, but suffice to say, we had one of the most fun and delicious and educational evenings ever!  (Ask us and we will bore you with details when we get home.)  The meal which we prepared with Giulietta’s guidance consisted of: homemade spinach ravioli filled with zucchini, ricotta, pine nuts and spices; roasted breast of turkey stuffed with pork sausage, wine and orange; eggplant rolls with fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil and parmesan; and for dessert, an apple torte.  All along it was supplemented with her own red wine from her vineyard…  Molto Buono!  

Ciao!  Bob and Chris

Relaxing Monday then on to Siena

Good friends, we have had a couple glorious days here in Tuscany.  Mondays in Tuscany are slow days.  Most of the museums are closed and many of the restaurants and some stores use it as their down day.  So Chris and I did the same.  We never left our hill atop Greve-in-Chianti.  It was a day for sleeping late, reading in spurts, taking a nap, sitting by the pool, and drinking good Chianti wine.  We fixed a light meal of pasta with pesto and mushrooms with some excellent gorgonza and pecorino cheeses to complement.  The temperature was in the high 70's and the pool is now open, though the water is still too cold for me.  Chris and I both finished books and started new ones.  

Today we got back in the car and explored.  Our home base is in the very center of the Chianti region so there are vineyards and olive trees everywhere.  As we drove south toward Siena we stopped to explore one of the vineyards and a smaller town called Castellina-in-Chianti.  Castellina seemed like a higher-end wine town.  Lots of cute shops and a wine store that featured some of the very best Chianti wines, including bottles more than 50 years old and costing in the thousands rather than my normal 4 buck chuck from Trader Joes.  

Siena was our next stop. It is a larger city, and has long rivaled (like since at least the 11th century) Florence.  Chris and I generally prefer spending time in the smaller villages, so we were going, but doubting whether this would be a top day.  We were both VERY IMPRESSED with Siena and thoroughly enjoyed our visit.  The main piazza (or square), IL Campo, is described as the best in Italy due to its design and size.  We agree.  It was beautiful and there truly is a lively and communal spirit there as people gather, sit, and drink at the cafe's (or eat gelato).  The cathedral church, (the Duomo), is maybe the most beautiful of all, rivaling Florence's and any we've seen.  Another church in the city honors Saint Domenico - the founder of the Order of Preachers (Domincans) and is the church of Saint Catherine of Siena.  It was a great visit.  (And with good gelato and pastries too!)

We'll have to see what Wednesday brings.

Ciao!

Bob and Chris

In Tuscany

We are now in Tuscany... more precisely in Greve in Chianti.  This is a small town right in the center of Chianti region, south of Florence by about an hour's drive.  That's only 25 miles, but the roads are something else.  

Our B&B has wireless internet, but for some password / system reason it isn't connecting with me.  So I'm down at the local pizzeria / tavern that has free wi-fi and we are logged in while we try a local Italian beer.  We had a very good day coming in on Saturday.  We stopped in Cortona, the hill town where "Under the Tuscan Sun" took place.  We had a wonderful stop because Saturday is market day there and the piazza was full.  Lots of interesting people and products.  Good cheese and surprise of all - we tried some gelato!  

When we got to Greve we walked around the town, sampling salami, cheese, wine and olive oil.  Our B&B is up - straight up - a 5 KM hill.  It is a nice place with great views.

Today we drove into Florence and went to church at St. James.  It is a unique place because it is one of the American churches in Europe.  They are part of The Episcopal Church and Pierre Whalon, someone I have met, is bishop.  Barbara Crafton, an email friend is the interim rector this year and we looked forward to seeing her and listening to her preach because she is excellent.  As luck would have it, she is in NYC at a meeting and we had a visiting guest preacher.  

Then on the to Uffizi - the greatest art museum in Italy.  More about that some other time.  Too much to share today.  Now we are back.  

This is Sunday and we prayed for you and hope you pray for us.  Especially we wish to offer thanksgivings for the 3 celebrations of marriage that were this weekend: Sandy and Cleve; Clay and Phil; and a 25 year anniversary for Don and Sue Wilson!  Congratulations to all of you!

Ciao!

Bob and Chris

Assisi: following Francis

This day was devoted to Assisi, and particularly to Francis and his followers.  We got up a couple hours earlier than normal so we could beat the crowds that are typical for this pilgrimage destination.  Driving in, it began drizzling rain and we knew it would either be blessing or curse.  As it turned out, it was blessing.  We had short minimalist showers a few times during the day, but never such that it bothered us.  On the other hand, the crowds were much smaller than reported, which we attributed to the poorer weather.  Plus it was not so burning hot as was yesterday.  

Our host at Villa Zuccari gave us good directions about which parking lot to try and so we ended up at the highest point to start.  It was all downhill for the morning.  (Of course that left a major hike for the end of the day, but at least we began with more energy that wasn’t sapped on a long arduous climb.)

On the way into the center of Assisi, we asked a couple Franciscan monks for directions.  I used my best Italian “Do-ve San Francesco?” meaning “where is”.  One turned to me and said, “Do you wish the answer in English?”  He was from Bangor Maine and used to be an Episcopalian!  He filled us in on the day and where to go.  We kept seeing him all day through the city.  

The Basilica of San Francesco was built over Francis’ tomb, beginning two years after his death.  It is pretty ironic since Francis himself prohibited his followers from building churches and places to live because he wanted all the money spent on the poor.  Nonetheless a beautiful church was built that later was too small and a larger church built over top of it.  So you have the “Upper” or “Superior” church, the lower or “Inferior” church and inside it all is the tomb or “Crypt Chapel”.  All of them are beautiful in their own way and full of the best art and devotion.  Chris and I spent a long time just sitting in the tomb chapel as pilgrims made their way through, stopping for prayers or offering cards and notes for people they loved.  Francis would have loved the crowd.  It was all sorts and conditions, from every continent and race.  

Afterward we made it to the other end and St. Clare’s church.  Clare was one of Francis’ followers during his lifetime and established an order for women, known as the “Poor Ladies” and eventually as the “Poor Clares” which continue today.  She is buried in the crypt room in the bottom of the church as well.  Like with San Francesco, there was a steady flow of pilgrims all day.  We gave thanks for reduced crowds due to weather, because we imagined it would have been very tiring if it had been normal.  

We also saw another couple churches in Assisi, including the Cathedral church for San Rufino (the picture with the construction going on) where both Francis and Clare were baptized.  The font is still actively used today.  When we finally made it back to our car we were exhausted and ready for our villa.  

This is our last day in Umbria.  Tomorrow it will be north to Tuscany, including a stop in Cortona, where “Under the Tuscan Sun” was filmed.  We stop for a week in the middle of Chianti country in a little town named Greve.  Umbria has been wonderful.  

Ciao!

Bob and Chris

Deruta and Beyond

The day began with a phenomenal breakfast with frittatas, prosciutto, ham, cereal, Sicilian red orange juice, fresh fruit, expresso and 6 different freshly baked breakfast breads and muffins.  The co-owner (wife and mother of the other parts of the team) spends hours baking and preparing this fantastic spread.  We spent a leisurely morning with her, talking about the history of the place, the 980 rose plants she put in this year, the effect of the world economy on their business and hopes for the future.  

In the side pic - can you guess which is probably our car?  It is either the red Alfa Romeo or the grey Nissan.... 

Today we had originally planned on going to Assisi for the day.  However, breakfast was so good and conversation with our host was interesting, so we were later than normal getting ready.  Our host at the villa said Assisi was jam-packed by noon and so we decided to do Assisi Friday and hit Deruta and Perugia today.  Deruta is a town known for their majolica (fine ceramics - pottery) and have over 100 stores, including several factories in town.  Our hotel gave us a couple leads for starting - the best quality places.  

After the first few stops we were getting tired and less impressed.  Then we found a small shop with the owner who also was the artist.  He took lots of time to explain the details and complexity of his work and what made quality work stand apart.  Our eyes were opened and we found a couple pieces that are representative of the best of Deruta art.  Next we got into Grazia and Co., which is the most famous local factory, being a family run producer since the 15th Century.  They sell in the US to Williams-Sonoma, Saks 5th, and several other top line sellers.  It was a fascinating tour of the place.  The sales person showed us every aspect of the production process.  We also met Dr. Grazia who is the current president and has been friends with lots of the world’s interesting folks.  Because we had been in Napa last summer, he talked about his friendships with Julia Child and Robert Mondavi, both who had died in the past couple years.  We found something to buy (that we could afford) and felt like we had been richly blessed by the afternoon.  

Dinner was in Montefalco, another hill town close to our hotel.  The restaurant was recommended by Mr. Grazia.  It turned out to be another fine meal even though the exterior was not promising.  

Home, home, back to our villa.  Tomorrow it will be Assisi.  

Ciao. 

Bob and Chris

Umbria Day ONE

Sorry for the interruption, but we didn't have our access for a day or so.  Back on board, though it might be spotty for a little while.  

We drove from Sorrento to our home for the next three nights.  We have a very small car, thanks be to God, because the roads can get tight and the Italian drivers are a little wild! (Right, Emily!)  It was about 4 hours of driving to get here and only two wrong turns, so those who remember Ireland escapades know we are doing better than average.  

We found our home in Montefalco, the Villa Zuccari.  It is a 16th Century home of the Zuccari family now converted into a very nice villa where they have typically a thriving business of business meetings, tourists and vacationers coming to relax in a little Italian luxury.  It is a sharp contrast to our other lodging for the trip - where we have gone for cost and convenience.  But this is very centrally located in Umbria and so works well since we have day trips planned to every direction here.  

Last night our direction was back south and east to Spoleto.  Pictures on Facebook tell the story better, but it is a charming city built up on the top of a hill.  In June-August it is filled with music and theatre festivals with people coming from worldwide for all types of singing, opera and dance.  

We checked with our hotel and then Tripadvisor.com (our travel bible) and found a highly recommended restaurant and had the meal of a decade (that we seem to have about every other night).   The owner told about his daily truffle hunt with his 8 trained dogs (2 dogs at a time is the legal limit).  We tasted his truffles in two of our dishes.  And drank some excellent house wine that came from Orvieto.  

Today we are headed to Deruta - a home for pottery and Perugia with chocolate and churches.  

Ciao!

Bob and Chris